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Wednesday, June 7, 2017

2017 - June 7th - Alaska - Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge - Talkeetna

It's now Wednesday, June 7th, and we are off to our next lodge The Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge. Having a good breakfast in the lodge, we boarded the motor coach that would take us to the train station as we are traveling from Denali to Mt. McKinley via rail. We had been told that just a couple weeks before our arrival that one of the local moose had delivered twin babies and to keep our eyes alert. As we approached the railroad station, there they were, mamma moose and the twins. Naturally, we all snapped pictures to commemorate the sighting! In 1983 President Ronald Reagan signed into law legislation authorizing transfer of the Alaska Railroad to the State of Alaska. Then, in 1985, the Alaska Railroad becomes the property of the State of Alaska. Princess Cruises and Holland America Lines, both owned by parent company Carnival Cruises, operate the largest fleet of dome rail cars in Alaska, including the McKinley Explorer. Large curved glass dome windows run the full length of the car, offering superb 180 degree views. The seats are comfortable, with foot rests and fold down tray tables. Each car has its own host guide (ours was John) who provides tour commentary, answers questions and offers gift shop items. On the lower level are restrooms, an outdoor viewing platform and a restaurant.


We had beautiful views of the Interior Alaska as we rode the McKinley train. We passed over Hurricane Gulch on a bridge built in 1921 that is 296 feet above the water and spans 914 feet, making it the longest bridge on the railroad where we caught some spectacular views. The Susitna River runs through Hurricane Gulch and the Railroad follows the river for many miles.
Our host and informational steward, John, highlighted every moment of our ride. He was great and a wonderful asset to the Alaska Railroad Company. Our Conductor Ted Lombard has been the face of the railroad for years. He can be seen in the railroad printed advertisements. He's a likable and knowledgeable man that will answer any question brought to him. On our upper viewing level next to the curved stairwell leading to the first level is a art piece depicting the native Alaskan Athabaskan Indians. The first level has the gift shop area, the dining room, and the kitchen with it's full staff.


We continued to enjoy the stunning and picturesque views of the Alaska outdoors through our 180 degree viewing windows. We saw mountains, lakes, more landscape and even spotted Bald Eagles.
I walked down to the lower level and worked my way to the last car of the train so that I could go to the outdoor observation platform. From here I could smell the wonderful outdoor scents of the Alaska fresh air and was able to shoot some great pictures. The train tracks were built for one-way traffic for the majority of the routes. The railroad has built a second short track at specific and calculated locations that is just long enough for a train coming from the opposite direction to fill. The Conductors must be alert to know the schedules and communicate the meeting of the two trains. The train is stopped while the Conductor gets off and pulls the switch lever so that the train may safely be put to the side, then pulls the switch lever again so that the oncoming train can safely pass. Once safely passed, the conductor once again switches the track so we can be on our way. The train folks jokingly call that other set of empty tracks as we are next to them, the bear tracks ... they will call out, "look out the right side of the train ... do you see the bear tracks?" followed by hearty laughs! Once inside the car again, I was able to capture some shots of the train as we rounded one of the curves.
We pass the 2,363 foot marker for the highest point on the Alaska Railroad, any route in the state. Views from the train of Mt. Denali ... now only about 40 miles away. we are so lucky to have a nice clear day! We see the Denali mountain range with the glaciers in the distance, constantly passing Black Spruce trees that are very old, but that do not get much taller or wider due to the ground's permafrost that keeps the trees from having deep roots to grow; also we see the occasional wild swans who migrate through Alaska. Unfortunately, not a very good picture of this swan! This train trip was just full of beauty in everything we saw in passing and the land in the distance. We would see the grand Denali peek though the other mountains, glaciers, the glacial streams run-offs, forests of thick trees, marshes and lakes and follow the winding Susitna River.

Heading into Talkeetna we find out from our host that between Talkeetna and Hurricane Gulch that the local Alaskans use the train service as a way to reach cabins or homes that are inaccessible any other way. The Alaska Railroad train still operates as a flag stop service, allowing passengers to hop on and off as they please. To disembark, they simple notify the conductor of the milepost where they wish to stop. To get back on, its as easy as a wave of a flag. The area where most of the cabins are located is known as Chase, which is home to approximately 40 year round residents. They use the Alaska Railroad as their lifeline to transport necessary goods from the larger cities back to their homes in the wilderness. That means grocery runs to the tiny village of Talkeetna or going much further to the larger town of Denali which has a much wider range of offerings. Planning a town buying trip is essential, especially in the cold and frigid winters. Often these individuals are very open to sharing their stories, and will paint a picture of what life is really like in back-country Alaska. As we approach Talkeetna, we get even more spectacular views of Mt. Denali. As we pull into Talkeetna we get more history and interesting facts. Talkeetna is located in the Matanuska-Susitna Valley which sprawls across 23,000 square miles of pure Alaska wilderness. Talkeetna is the staging area for over 1,000 climbers who attempt to climb Denali - formerly known as Mount McKinley - each year, but there are ample opportunities to see this mountain without having to climb it. Located at the confluence of three major rivers, the Susitna, Chulitna, and Talkeetna, the town of Talkeetna keeps its mining history alive with renovated miners' cabins used as lodging, shops and restaurants. Talkeetna's charm is in it's down-home feel. Shops filled with unique Alaska gifts line historic Main Street. Talkeetna is also home to several restaurants, with all types of dining from sit-down to street fare. In Talkeetna, flightseeing tours to Denali and glacier landings are popular. Alaska is one of the few places in the world you can land on a glacier.
We had been told that the Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge was about an hour shuttle ride from Talkeetna. The suggestion was to stay in town and do whatever before going to the lodge. Free shuttles run every hour on the half-hour. We decided that was a good plan. It was early afternoon when we arrived. As we started our walk to Main Street, we saw the Sheldon Air Service table advertising their flights to Denali and landing on the glacier. Fred and I wanted to have this experience and after talking with the young woman at the table, we booked our tour. Her sister arrived in their van within five minutes to take us to the airport for this adventure. Pam and Mary Anne had no desire to go, so they were going to find something for lunch in the village. We arrived at Sheldon Air, signed the paperwork, were given a pair of rubber boots for walking on the glacier, and met our pilot Frank ... then we were off on our flight in his Cessna plane!
Frank pointed out many areas below us, named mountains and ridges, pointed out some Moose in one of the lakes below, and gave us a lot of history and stories as we approached the glacier on Denali. We really enjoyed everything from the narration to the sights. We came to our approach and saw that there were two other planes already on the glacier as well. After setting wheels-down (or should I say plane skis-down), we debarked and looked around the glacier. Frank was full of information to relay to us. We walked around and took in all the majestic moments!
We looked in awe at peaks and saw some of the climber's camp site from a distance. Even up the glacier on a mountain top was an out-house! Airborne again, we flew over some of the most beautiful photo opportunities of the glacier with the sun reflecting the brilliant turquoise blue ponds and ice of the Denali glacier. We joined up with Mary Anne and Pam on Main Street, the only street, in downtown Talkeetna. The girls had found some of their favorite foods at a Talkeetna street vendor's restored and converted Airstream trailer, Talkeetna Spinach Bread. The girls said that this place had fantastic Black Beans and Rice, Spinach Bread and Coffee ... we took their word for that!!! For Fred and me, the West Rib Pub and Grill was selected for their Caribou burger offering. There is a sure way to tell if a place is a good one to eat in, for in every town around the world, the locals know where to spend their time and enjoy the company of others. The West Rib Pub & Grill is one such place. The Caribou was really tasty and enjoyable, plus who couldn't love the battered fries and the coleslaw?
With lunch complete, we wandered the about-three-block-long downtown section of this little village. Talkeetna really does exist for the climbers to Denali. It is just a cute little village. John from our train had said that while in Talkeetna you must not miss Shirley's handmade ice cream. We do believe that anyone who goes to Talkeetna does buy ice cream from Shirley. It is simply wonderful and we agree a must when in Talkeetna. One of her specialties is "Fireweed" ice cream ... yes, it's made from that little pink flower that we saw in Denali National Park and all over Alaska. Shirley has found a way to make this a delicious ice cream!
We really had a good time in Talkeetna before getting our shuttle ride to our Mt. McKinley Lodge.

We arrived at our Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge about an hour later. The grounds are really enormous stretching out several acres. Pam and Fred's accommodations were on one side loop of the main lodge building and our accommodations were on the complete opposite side loop. It is a beautiful property. From the wolf sculptures at the front entrance to the lodge to the antler door handles to beautiful lobby stone fireplace to the massive antler chandelier to the open dining room and more, every detail is perfection.
And the Mt. McKinley grounds are just as beautiful with a glorious dining deck, the well manicured lawns, the various guest accommodations buildings and the sculptures throughout. By the overlook from next to the deck on the way to our room is a Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness arch sign that when you look through the center perfectly encompasses Mt. McKinley (Denali).
And then for a little fun in the lobby, Pam & Mary Anne, then Mary Anne and Larry jumped into the Denali poster ...
So we say Good-Night to all as we prepare to travel tomorrow to the Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge. What adventures are we in for there? Good-bye until then with a couple of last glimpses of majestic Denali.
To view all of the captioned pictures from our stay here at Mt. McKinley, just click on this convenient link!

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