Monday morning was our new experience of driving 150 miles to Key West. Driving through many small islands or keys connected by bridges to reach the destination of Key West, the furthest south in the continental United States, was a beautiful way to enjoy the morning. To get there, the only road is the great Route US 1, Overseas Highway. This scenic drive follows the route of the Florida East Coast Railroad, which operated until 1935. When a hurricane damaged the railroad beyond repair, the government built this epic road instead.
A quick photo of one of the islands (keys) that we pass between Homestead and Key West on the Overseas Highway US 1.
We enjoyed all of the scenic water that we had on both sides of us as we drove and seeing the restaurants, boats, docks, homes and other buildings on the keys (islands) and the towns that we drove through. We first passed through Key Largo where the famous 1980's era Key Largo song just continuously runs through my mind when the sign appears! "We had it all - Just like Bogie and Bacall - Starring in our old late, late show - Sailing away to Key Largo!"
Another of the keys was the small town of Islamorada … I just like the sound of this! Why? I have no idea!!!
Once getting to Marathon, the spectacular seven-mile bridge journey begins. It is luscious as we approach it, seeing the rise of part of the bridge looming over the water. It makes us think of who would have ever imaged of building a bridge in the ocean that could span seven miles? It makes that saying "If you can dream it, you can do it" a real possibility.
A quick photo of one of the islands (keys) that we pass between Homestead and Key West on the Overseas Highway US 1.
We enjoyed all of the scenic water that we had on both sides of us as we drove and seeing the restaurants, boats, docks, homes and other buildings on the keys (islands) and the towns that we drove through. We first passed through Key Largo where the famous 1980's era Key Largo song just continuously runs through my mind when the sign appears! "We had it all - Just like Bogie and Bacall - Starring in our old late, late show - Sailing away to Key Largo!"
Another of the keys was the small town of Islamorada … I just like the sound of this! Why? I have no idea!!!
Once getting to Marathon, the spectacular seven-mile bridge journey begins. It is luscious as we approach it, seeing the rise of part of the bridge looming over the water. It makes us think of who would have ever imaged of building a bridge in the ocean that could span seven miles? It makes that saying "If you can dream it, you can do it" a real possibility.
The old Florida East Coast Railroad, which operated until 1935 when a hurricane damaged the railroad beyond repair, was originally the only transportation to the keys and Key West. "Although several people had considered constructing a railroad to Key West beginning in the early 1800s, it took a bold industrialist with unparalleled vision to make it happen. In 1902, Henry Flagler made the decision to extend the Florida East Coast Railway to "the nearest deep-water American port."
We arrived in Key West around mid-day and sought out our booked 1950's era accommodations at the Southwinds Motel. Taking a chance when booking on-line not really knowing the truthfulness of the reviews of a vintage motel, we were relieved that the Southwinds was as described.
The motel appears to me to be a combination of three motels that have now been combined to make the Southwinds. To get to each section, you have to go off of the property onto the sidewalk and into that other section. Each section is self-sustaining and has its own pool. Our section was a long row of connecting rooms with lovely palms and other lush greens and flowers by the rooms. Our rooms were great, nice and clean with a small refrigerator, microwave, tea-and coffee-making machines and cable flat screen TV. They have kept the 1950's feel but updated with modern convivences.
While bringing our luggage to the room from the car about six feet away, a hen and two of her chicks decided they might like to enter our open doorway! I quickly took a step towards them and said "no, no!" to which they changed direction and did not enter! We found out that there are chickens and roosters all over Key West. As we were told, love them or hate them, chickens are a colorful part of Key West history. The gypsy chickens of today are the descendants of chickens brought to the island by settlers for meat, eggs, and cockfighting entertainment. Cuban immigrants who came to Key West in the late 19th century to work in the cigar industry and in the 1950s to escape the Cuban Revolution brought their own breed of “Cubalaya” chickens with them. As poultry and eggs became readily available in the markets and cockfighting became illegal, the chickens were released by their owners or escaped from their enclosures to roam the streets freely.
Across the street from the Southwinds was a combination walk-up restaurant and convenience store with a deli, souvenirs, a grocery and just about anything else one could want. Being lunch time, we decided to try out Ana's Cuban Café. Naturally there were roosters and chickens on the porch deck here too!
Neither of us had ever had a Cuban Sandwich, so what do you suppose we ordered at Ana's Cuban Café? Our very first delicious Cuban! It has all the ingredients that we enjoy, so having a grilled sandwich made with pulled pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mustard on Cuban bread was up our alley. The essential ingredient is the roasted pork, which they say is traditionally marinated in a mojo sauce redolent with orange juice, lime juice, garlic, oregano, and cumin before roasting.
While we sat on the porch eating, this very unique, highly decorated van full of shells and paintings drove by. Love it!!! Only in Key West, eh? A great introduction to the city!!!
We took an after-lunch stroll around the neighborhood of our motel. We were only two blocks from the ocean, so we had a marvelous time gawking at the architecture and "feel" of Key West as we approached the shoreline.
Orchids planted in moss and tied to the trees to keep growing are a regular thing in Key West.
Along the walk we also saw many banana trees which evidently are pretty common throughout Key West
Spanish moss and orchids on the trees …
We reached the ocean with a small dog park next to a restaurant overlooking the bay. It was beautiful, relaxing, and had a gorgeous breeze on a spectacular afternoon.
When we approached the Southwinds, we were on the backside where the motel has family rooms with extra beds. We sat by the pool here chatting and enjoying the wonderful weather and surroundings of the Florida Keys!
Pam & Fred suggested taking a Sunset Water Dinner Cruise. We all thought that this would be fun and something different for the evening. We made reservations at the motel lobby. Going to the pier, we checked in and waited for boarding.
There are wonderful views of the ocean and the marina as we depart port. The ocean breeze brings in that clean smell of the ocean water. We must get a little closer to Cuba as that's the only thing out there besides water!!!
Mary Anne and Pam enjoy a little wine on the Sunset Dinner Cruise while taking in some of the views from the deck.
We had a great selection of food on the buffet dinner served on the Sunset Dinner Cruise. We could not have asked for more. What a stunning time we had and most enjoyable food too!
From the outside deck, we took-in the marvelous view of the sun setting on the ocean waters. The colors were glorious! We adsorbed it all on this wonderful experience.
Pam had heard of the Better Than Sex - A Dessert Restaurant in Orlando but did not know that the original was here in Key West. The Orlando location only has thirteen tables and is extremely hard to get into with long waiting lines at all times. This Key West location is slightly larger, but not big either. The interior is very intimate. We hit it at the right time! The owner and founder is a self-taught cook. She has put together some pretty amazing tastes!
Mary Anne's "Caress My Carrot":
A carrot cake with dripped honey tip, filled with died cranberry, pineapple and pecans Then a fluffed vanilla-bean cream cheese frosting with an occasional bruleed sugar
Pam's "Cookie Nookie Pie":
Intense Sweetie Pie. Chocolate Chip and Pecan Cookie filling wrapped in a Flakey Pie Crust. Vanilla Bean Ball. Caramel and Semi-Sweet Chocolate
Larry's "Missionary Crisp":
Red Delicious ‘skin-on’ apples. Buttery cake-like layer "On Top”. Salted Graham Cracker. Vanilla Bean Balls. Caramel.
Fred's "Italian Stallion":
Espresso. Ladyfingers. Amaretto Cream Cheese Mousse. Firm chocolate shortbread bottom. Chocolate Whipped Topping Completes his Package.
After breakfast on Tuesday, we went to see The Southernmost point of the Continental U.S.A., Key West, Florida. 90 miles to Cuba. Every tourist must get their picture taken at this buoy to show for the record that they were there. We are no exception!
Next on the agenda was to visit the President Harry Truman Little White House. The house was built in 1890 as the first officer's quarters on the submarine base naval station. The house was designed in 1889 and the wooden duplex contained Quarters A for the base commandant and Quarters B for the paymaster. It is located in what is called the Truman Annex which is both a neighborhood and military installation.
Formerly the Truman Annex Naval Station, this mixed use redevelopment sits on 45 acres in the heart of the Key West historic district. In 1986 Pritam Singh purchased the 43-acre property from the GSA for a bid of $17 million and began the redevelopment initiative considered to be one of the most successful highly regulated and permitted real estate projects in Florida history. This complex redevelopment project of over 800,000 square feet was completed in 1996 with 425 classic conch style, single family homes, high end condominiums, a hotel, affordable housing, parks, marina, retail, commercial and museums. The community includes several designated National Register properties and most significantly the Little White House, the former vacation home of President Harry Truman which is now a historic house museum. We walked by the 1845 former United States Marine Hospital and were stunned with its beauty.
Formerly the Truman Annex Naval Station, this mixed use redevelopment sits on 45 acres in the heart of the Key West historic district. In 1986 Pritam Singh purchased the 43-acre property from the GSA for a bid of $17 million and began the redevelopment initiative considered to be one of the most successful highly regulated and permitted real estate projects in Florida history. This complex redevelopment project of over 800,000 square feet was completed in 1996 with 425 classic conch style, single family homes, high end condominiums, a hotel, affordable housing, parks, marina, retail, commercial and museums. The community includes several designated National Register properties and most significantly the Little White House, the former vacation home of President Harry Truman which is now a historic house museum. We walked by the 1845 former United States Marine Hospital and were stunned with its beauty.
The neighborhood is packed with glorious private homes. They are all simply luscious!
In Truman Waterfront Park stands the United States Weather Bureau. As one of the original observation stations, Key West was critical for weather forecasters.
In the Truman Waterfront Park there are only private resident automobiles allowed. This was a blessing as we were able to walk the neighborhood and take in all of the spectacular homes and buildings in a leisurely manner. We approached the Truman Little White House about 15 minutes into our walk.
The Little White House was built in 1890 as quarters for Navy officers, the Little White House was used by American Presidents William Howard Taft, Harry S. Truman, Dwight Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, Jimmy Carter and Bill Clinton. Truman used the facility as a vacation home and functioning White House between 1946 and 1952. National legislation was drafted and official government business was conducted daily from the site.
In Truman Waterfront Park stands the United States Weather Bureau. As one of the original observation stations, Key West was critical for weather forecasters.
In the Truman Waterfront Park there are only private resident automobiles allowed. This was a blessing as we were able to walk the neighborhood and take in all of the spectacular homes and buildings in a leisurely manner. We approached the Truman Little White House about 15 minutes into our walk.
The Little White House was built in 1890 as quarters for Navy officers, the Little White House was used by American Presidents William Howard Taft, Harry S. Truman, Dwight Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, Jimmy Carter and Bill Clinton. Truman used the facility as a vacation home and functioning White House between 1946 and 1952. National legislation was drafted and official government business was conducted daily from the site.
The Little White House:
Built in 1890 on the waterfront as a two-family dwelling for the base commandant and paymaster. It was converted into a single-family residence in 1911. President William Howard Taft visited this site in December 1912. Thomas Edison lived here for six months during World War I while inventing 41 new weapons. Franklin Roosevelt visited in 1917, 1926 and in 1939. President Harry S Truman used this house for 175 days during his administration of 1945-1953.
Presidential Seal and Harry S. Truman on entrance to the Little White House
In November 1946, President Harry S Truman had finished 19 months in office, but was physically exhausted. His doctor, Wallace Graham, ordered a warm vacation. Truman arrived in November 1946. As he was leaving, he promised to return whenever he felt the need for rest. His second vacation came in March 1947. This set the pattern for additional visits every November–December and every February–March. Changing technology allowed the President to communicate with multiple political or world leaders at one time and he could summon staff to Key West for a meeting in three hours flight from Washington. Most importantly, Truman realized that where the President was, the White House was. Documents issued from the Little White House read "The White House, US Naval Station, Key West, Florida." Truman spent 175 days of his presidency at the Little White House.
In November 1946, President Harry S Truman had finished 19 months in office, but was physically exhausted. His doctor, Wallace Graham, ordered a warm vacation. Truman arrived in November 1946. As he was leaving, he promised to return whenever he felt the need for rest. His second vacation came in March 1947. This set the pattern for additional visits every November–December and every February–March. Changing technology allowed the President to communicate with multiple political or world leaders at one time and he could summon staff to Key West for a meeting in three hours flight from Washington. Most importantly, Truman realized that where the President was, the White House was. Documents issued from the Little White House read "The White House, US Naval Station, Key West, Florida." Truman spent 175 days of his presidency at the Little White House.
With time, Presidents are ranked differently than when they were in office. President Truman rose from one of the worst to number 5 of the best in 2009.
A working southern White House for President Harry S. Truman
Our docent told us several interesting stories. Mrs. Truman would spend much of her husband’s presidency in Missouri, returning to Washington only for the social season. She did not accompany him on all trips to the Key West White House. The Truman's never owned a home. There was no allowance for moving out of the White House in those days. The Trumans returned to Independence, Missouri and back to her grandfather’s house where they had lived before the Presidency.
Our docent told us several interesting stories. Mrs. Truman would spend much of her husband’s presidency in Missouri, returning to Washington only for the social season. She did not accompany him on all trips to the Key West White House. The Truman's never owned a home. There was no allowance for moving out of the White House in those days. The Trumans returned to Independence, Missouri and back to her grandfather’s house where they had lived before the Presidency.
Another interesting story is that President Truman carried his prized record albums in his briefcase and would bring them himself to Key West to listen to often.
Following the closing of the Key West Submarine Base in 1974, the Truman White House was vacated. Fortunately, the interior designer took photos of the rooms, wrote notes on each room and the Navy inventoried the contents of the house and put them in storage. In 1988 the property was turned over to the State of Florida and the original items were returned.
The custom made Poker Table has slots for poker chips and ash trays for cigars. The table's custom made cover was used when Mrs. Truman visited. Bess was a fine, upstanding Midwestern woman who didn't approve of card playing and drinking. She knew of Harry's leisure time and spent her time otherwise occupied.
President Truman enjoyed playing his piano.
President Truman worked at this desk and he often played the piano.
The décor of the house is standard late 1940s furniture, wall treatments and drapery. The Dining room shows this style.
President Truman's Bedroom
The Little White House guest bedroom
We had an in-depth tour of the residence and learned so much history while listening to our docent.
Leaving the Truman Little White House, we exited the Truman Waterfront Park and thought we were on the street that we parked the car on. After several blocks and seeing ahead no car in sight, we cut over one street and turned left to head back a couple of blocks to where the GPS said the car was parked. As we rounded the corner, we saw The Hemingway House which was on our "must do list" for our next stop. So we really didn't go out of our way! We all had a good laugh about that!
Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote here for more than ten years. Calling Key West home, he found solace and great physical challenge in the turquoise waters that surround this tiny island. This unique property was home to one of America’s most honored and respected authors.
Hemingway Home garden fountain in shape of warship ship greets visitors at the entrance to the home.
President Truman enjoyed playing his piano.
President Truman worked at this desk and he often played the piano.
The décor of the house is standard late 1940s furniture, wall treatments and drapery. The Dining room shows this style.
President Truman's Bedroom
The Little White House guest bedroom
We had an in-depth tour of the residence and learned so much history while listening to our docent.
Leaving the Truman Little White House, we exited the Truman Waterfront Park and thought we were on the street that we parked the car on. After several blocks and seeing ahead no car in sight, we cut over one street and turned left to head back a couple of blocks to where the GPS said the car was parked. As we rounded the corner, we saw The Hemingway House which was on our "must do list" for our next stop. So we really didn't go out of our way! We all had a good laugh about that!
Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote here for more than ten years. Calling Key West home, he found solace and great physical challenge in the turquoise waters that surround this tiny island. This unique property was home to one of America’s most honored and respected authors.
Hemingway Home garden fountain in shape of warship ship greets visitors at the entrance to the home.
Ernest Hemingway is surrounded by his four wives -
Hadley Richardson -- m. 1921–1927
Pauline Pfeiffer -- m. 1927–1940
Martha Gellhorn -- m. 1940–1945
Mary Welsh Hemingway -- m. 1946–1961
Throughout the house we see many cats. There is quite a history to this which is explained by the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. It is home to approximately 40-50 polydactyl (six-toed) cats. Cats normally have five front toes and four back toes. About half of the cats at the museum have the physical polydactyl trait but they all carry the polydactyl gene in their DNA, which means that the ones that have 4 and 5 toes can still mother or father six-toed kittens. Most cats have extra toes on their front feet and sometimes on their back feet as well. Sometimes it looks as if they are wearing mittens because they appear to have a thumb on their paw.
Throughout the house we see many cats. There is quite a history to this which is explained by the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. It is home to approximately 40-50 polydactyl (six-toed) cats. Cats normally have five front toes and four back toes. About half of the cats at the museum have the physical polydactyl trait but they all carry the polydactyl gene in their DNA, which means that the ones that have 4 and 5 toes can still mother or father six-toed kittens. Most cats have extra toes on their front feet and sometimes on their back feet as well. Sometimes it looks as if they are wearing mittens because they appear to have a thumb on their paw.
Ernest Hemingway was given a white six-toed cat by a ship’s captain and some of the cats who live on the museum grounds are descendants of that original cat, named Snow White. Key West is a small island and it is possible that many of the cats on the island are related. The polydactyl cats are not a particular breed. The trait can appear in any breed, Calicos, Tabbies, Tortoise Shell, White, Black, etc. They vary in shapes, sizes, colors and personalities. So when we take pictures, many times there are cats on the furniture that we are not allowed to touch or sit on!!!
Some of the house furnishings ….
Ernest Hemingway and his typewriter which many books were written.
Pauline Hemingway's bath and bed quarters
A gorgeous chandelier in the bedroom and gorgeous mosaic tile floor in the bathroom
Garden view from the upstairs of the Hemingway house
Hemingway's writing studio in the second floor of a free-standing carriage house next to the Hemingway house. There is his round writing table and studio library. This writing studio was a place to think and dream as well as write.
The Key West Lighthouse adjacent to the Hemingway house can be seen from the garden.
These are some of the Hemingway beloved cats. Carrying on the tradition, cats freely roam the property, inside and out!
Hemingway spent so much time at his friend Joe’s bar (the original Sloppy Joe's) that when Joe was moving locations, Hemingway remarked that surely he’d spent enough money there to own a small chunk of it, and Joe laughed and gifted him with one of the bar’s urinals.
Hemingway's wife Pauline, upon finding a urinal in her yard, was understandably unimpressed, but made the best of a bad situation by adorning the urinal with decorative tile. Hemingway had the urinal, along with a large decorative Spanish olive jar that he’d brought from Cuba, fitted with plumbing and converted into a self-refreshing water fountain for his pets. The cats seem to like it and you have to know the story or stare hard to realize there’s a urinal involved.
The Hemingway Pool:
The city refused Pauline's request to use dynamite to excavate the pool, so the work had to be done by hand with picks and sledge hammers. As no fresh running water was available in Key West until 1944, a drill was used to reach the saltwater table, then the saltwater was pumped into the pool. The project took a year and a half and ran considerably over budget. Still it was the talk of the town and the delight of the Hemingway guests.
Hemingway Pool Facts
Completed: 1937
Width: 24 feet
Length: 64 feet
Shallow Depth: 4 feet 8 inches
Deepest Depth: 8 feet 7 inches
Capacity: 80,784 gallons
Cost: $20,000
Hemingway Pool - it was the talk of the town and the delight of the Hemingway guests "... It lights up at night - I find that each underwater bulb is five times the voltage of one bulb in the lighthouse across the street, so the pool must be visible to Mars - it is wonderful to swim around in a sort of green water..."
Elizabeth Bishop, Poet Laureate and friend of Pauline
Hemingway said that the pool cost him his last cent. Pauline was proud that she took his last cent and had this 1934 penny embedded in the concrete at the foot of the pool giving a glimpse into the romantic entanglements of Ernest Hemingway.
Hemingway Pool - it was the talk of the town and the delight of the Hemingway guests "... It lights up at night - I find that each underwater bulb is five times the voltage of one bulb in the lighthouse across the street, so the pool must be visible to Mars - it is wonderful to swim around in a sort of green water..."
Elizabeth Bishop, Poet Laureate and friend of Pauline
Hemingway said that the pool cost him his last cent. Pauline was proud that she took his last cent and had this 1934 penny embedded in the concrete at the foot of the pool giving a glimpse into the romantic entanglements of Ernest Hemingway.
And so concluded our visit to the marvelous Hemingway Home and Museum in Key West
Cattycorner to the Hemingway House is the Key West Lighthouse. On our way to the car we were able to walk around it and see many views of this spectacular building.
After lunch at the end of Duval Street by the water, we thought we'd take on being a Merman and Mermaid!
Exploring Key West we found this old brick and stone wall and structure down by the waterfront.
Sloppy Joe's Bar at the corner of Duval and Greene Streets. The official beginning of Sloppy Joe’s Bar, the famous and infamous Key West saloon, was December 5, 1933 – the day Prohibition was repealed. It was Hemingway, a favorite patron of Russell’s bar from the start, who encouraged its name change to Sloppy Joe’s. The new name was adopted from Jose Garcia Rio Havana club selling liquor and iced seafood. Because the floor was always wet with melted ice, his patrons taunted this Spanish Joe with running a sloppy place … and the name stuck.
Another site to explore on our list was The Oldest House in South Florida, circa 1829.
Sloppy Joe's Bar at the corner of Duval and Greene Streets. The official beginning of Sloppy Joe’s Bar, the famous and infamous Key West saloon, was December 5, 1933 – the day Prohibition was repealed. It was Hemingway, a favorite patron of Russell’s bar from the start, who encouraged its name change to Sloppy Joe’s. The new name was adopted from Jose Garcia Rio Havana club selling liquor and iced seafood. Because the floor was always wet with melted ice, his patrons taunted this Spanish Joe with running a sloppy place … and the name stuck.
Another site to explore on our list was The Oldest House in South Florida, circa 1829.
The Story of The Red Shawl -
Many years ago in the 1860s, wreckers brought back to Key West a shipment of red merino wool cloth salvaged from a wrecking operation. The town ladies went wild. They purchased all available material, then set about cutting and sewing shawls, the fashion statement of the time.
The popular shawls appeared everywhere. The men smiling dubbed any gathering of gossiping ladies as "red shawling it".
The Oldest House furnishings are an antique dealer or collector's dream!!!
The Oldest House Cistern is located under the back porch. The Island of Key West, along with the rest of the Keys, has no reliable source of fresh water. Under this porch is a cistern for the storage of rain water, the only fresh water available in Key West. This cistern is about 7 feet deep and measures 80 square feet beneath the porch, and is built from brick and cement. Water was retrieved by hand pump or bucket. The water remains clear due to the limestone base and lack of sunlight.
The Captain's Room
This room was enclosed from the open sleeping porch about 1880. On an island where nothing went to waste, the paneling is recycled piano crates, likely salvaged from a shipwreck at that time. The Captain's Room has a writing desk, model ships, and instruments of the Captain.
Cookhouse: Here in Key West the separate cookhouse kept the heat away from the house and reduced the risk of fire. The cookhouse behind the Oldest House dates approximately 1838 and is the last remaining original cookhouse in Key West.
Oldest House Gardens, circa 1829
At the end of the day we needed to end our magical stay in Key West in the only city that truly makes Key Lime Pie. From the Food Channel we had the recommendation of The Key West Key Lime Pie Company. We found their storefront and bought a whole pie for the price for four slices! The shop is adorable with their colorful mixers lighting up the store. We took the pie back to the Southwinds and sat outside at a pool table to enjoy. We reminisced the day while indulging on this Key West legend, the Key Lime Pie! There was enough left over for my breakfast n the morning!
Cookhouse: Here in Key West the separate cookhouse kept the heat away from the house and reduced the risk of fire. The cookhouse behind the Oldest House dates approximately 1838 and is the last remaining original cookhouse in Key West.
Oldest House Gardens, circa 1829
At the end of the day we needed to end our magical stay in Key West in the only city that truly makes Key Lime Pie. From the Food Channel we had the recommendation of The Key West Key Lime Pie Company. We found their storefront and bought a whole pie for the price for four slices! The shop is adorable with their colorful mixers lighting up the store. We took the pie back to the Southwinds and sat outside at a pool table to enjoy. We reminisced the day while indulging on this Key West legend, the Key Lime Pie! There was enough left over for my breakfast n the morning!
And that wraps up our Key West experience!!! All the pictures are in this album.
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